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sábado, 9 de janeiro de 2010

Adafina, Khoresh de karafs e Charquikán pra ser feliz...

Os cozidos, que o Dicionário Aurélio da Língua Portuguesa, define como “prato de carnes (peito, carnes salgadas, charcutaria, etc.) cozidas com verduras, legumes, ovos, batatas” -, e, pode se acrescentar, grãos- fazem parte daquelas comidas especiais que alimentam o corpo e alma. O cozido faz parte da historia do homem, remete a tempos ancestrais, a grandes panelas comunitárias, ao compartilhamento dos bens disponíveis, à sobrevivência. Um prato quente que sacia a fome e traz aconchego para o viajante cansado, o guerreiro que volta pra casa, o homem ou a mulher que venceu a labuta diária. Cozidos, guisados, ensopados ou “pot-au-feu”, como dizem os franceses, têm o exato sentido do chamado “confort food”... E não há povo que não tenha o seu e, normalmente, em mais de uma versão...
O cozido está conosco há muito tempo. Foi a segunda forma de cozinhar alimentos aprendida pelos homens. A primeira foram os assados, mais rústicos, direto no fogo. Já o cozido só foi possível quando os humanos deixaram de ser simples coletores andarilhos e começaram algum tipo de organização social. Seu preparo exige panelas e também exige tempo e dedicação o que implica numa divisão de tarefas, só possível com alguma organização social. O cozido foi nosso primeiro alimento sofisticado e gourmet. Mesmo que no decorrer dos tempos tenha se tornado o prato popular que aproveita sobras e alimenta com pouco um grande número de pessoas.

Bem, retirados alguns excessos, como as carnes muito gordas, os cozidos são uma boa opção para dietas e podem ser consumidos como pratos únicos que obedecem muito bem aos princípios da dieta 5-a-day que este blog defende (ver postagens de outubro de 2009). Uma boa opção é consumi-los como nos primórdios: primeiro o caldo, que sustenta e, em seguida as partes sólidas. Têm ainda a vantagem de se conservarem muito bem no freeser. Guarde em porções individuais, pequenas. Do tamanho de uma tigelinha japonesa.
As variações dos cozidos são tantas que o blog inicia, hoje,com três receitas, sua participação neste movimento, que está tão na moda no mercado editorial, das “1001 coisas para se fazer antes de morrer”... Começou com “1000 Lugares para Conhecer Antes de Morrer” de Patricia Schulz, ganhou mais um e virou “1001” como as noites de Sherazade e hoje engloba tudo: ingredientes culinários,filmes, discos, vinhos (o que achei esquisito já que vinhos dependem de safras e nem todos são bons de guarda) e por ai vai. Vamos então para os “1001 cozidos a se apreciar antes de morrer”.... Se chegar lá, quem sabe vira livro???
Os três cozidos que dão inicio à série são geniais. O primeiro deles é a “adafina" um dos mais famosos pratos da rica culinária dos judeus sefarditas que viviam na Espanha, em meados do século 15 e que é considerado pela literatura gastronômica espanhola ''a mãe de todos os cozidos''. Os judeus elaboravam a adafina às sextas-feiras, véspera do Shabat, dia de descanso religioso.

Adafina
100 gramas de grão-de-bico
100 gramas de feijão branco
100 gramas de arroz integral
1 colher (sopa) de azeite de oliva
2 cebolas em rodelas grossas
4 dentes de alho picados em rodelas
Um quilo de carne de cordeiro em pedaços de tamanho médio (mas, aqui no blog, pode substituir por carne de boi)
4 cenouras em rodelas grossas
1/2 nabo em rodelas grossas
100 g de abóbora em pedaços
100 gramas de marmelo em rodelas (se for difícil achar marmelo faça sem ele).
1 pedaço de canela em pau
4 cravos
1/2 colher (café) de noz-moscada
Sal e pimenta-do-reino a gosto
1 ovo batido e diluído em três colheres de água
3 copos de água
Cebolinha picada para polvilhar
OBS: A RECEITA FOI ADAPTADA AOS OBJETIVOS DO BLOG. Foram diminuídas as quantidades dose grãos e optou-se pelo arroz integral. A adafina é muito boa para dieta pois tem muita fibra....

Deixe o grão-de-bico e o feijão de molho durante a noite, em recipientes separados. Em panela de barro (com tampa), aqueça o azeite, incorpore a cebola, e o alho e deixe dourar. Retire a cebola e o alho com uma escumadeira e reserve. Na mesma panela, refogue a carne até dourar. Retire a carne e reserve. Cubra o fundo da panela com as cenouras, o nabo, a abóbora, o arroz, o grão-de-bico e o feijão escorridos, o alho e volte com a carne. Coloque os marmelos e os temperos. Coloque o ovo batido por cima, cubra com água e cozinhe em forno preaquecido em temperatura média, até ficar tudo muito macio. Sirva com a cebolinha picada.
Nosso segundo cozido também tem origem em um povo do Oriente Médio, os iranianos. Pra quem não sabe o Irã tem uma das cozinhas mais sofisticadas do mundo árabe, herdeira de toda a tradição do império persa. Ozinha que inclui o famaso caviar iraniano do esturjão do mar Cáspio entre outros ingredientes gourmets como lentilhas cor-de-rosa, pétalas de rosa, amêndoas, pitache, romãs e especiarias, entre elas o açafrão, dill e estragão... Mas não se preocupe com tantos ingredientes, o cozido que escolhemos é mais simples:
Khoresh de karafs


500 gr de coxão-duro em cubos médios
4 talos de salsão em pedaços médios
1 xícara (chá) de salsinha
1/2 cebola picada
1 colher (sdpa) de extrato de tomate
3 colheres (sopa) de folhinhas de hortelã
1 colher (sopa) de suco de limão
1 colher (sopa) de açafrão da terra (cúrcuma)
sal
pimenta-do-reino
1 colher (sopa) de óleo ou azeite para refogar a carne e
1 colher (sobremesa) de azeite par refogar o salsão.
2 dentes de alho amassados
Refogue o alho e a cebola e, quanto estiverem macios, coloque os cubos de carne. Refogue bem novamente. Coloque o sal, a pimenta, o açafrão e em seguida o extrato de tomate e junte água até cobrir a carne. Deixe ferver por uns 40 minutos em fogo baixo. Vá vigiando e acrescentando água se necessário. Numa frigideira separada refogue os pedaços de salsão até ficarem levemente dourados. Retire o salsão e junte à carne. Na mesma frigideira refogue a salsinha e a hortelã para que soltem seus aromas e óleos. Coloque junte com a carne e cozinhe por mais uns 30 minutos.
E para terminar nossa série de hoje - e dar uma verdadeira idéia de como o cozido dá volta ao mundo - segue uma receita do nosso vizinho aqui da América do Sul, o Chile. Embora a culinária chilena seja mais voltada para peixes e frutos do mar é do Charquikán que, garantem, mais sentem saudade quando estão fora do país.
Charquikán



3 batatas médias cortadas em quatro
1 cenoura cortada em pedaços pequenos
200 gramas de abóbora em pedaços
100 gramas de vagem picada
1 lata de ervilhas
1 lata de milho verde
1 colher (sopa) cheia de cebola picada
1 dente de alho finamente picado
1/2 colher (sopa) de salsa picada
1 colher (sopa) de óleo
250 gramas de carne moída ou cortada em pedacinhos
pequenos
2 xícaras de caldo de carne
sal
Pimenta-do-reino

Cozinhe juntos em 4 xícaras (chá) de água com pouco
sal, a cenoura, as batatas, a abóbora e a vagem. Quando
estiver quase tudo cozido acrescente o milho e a
ervilha escorridos. Escorra e guarde a água do
cozimento. Doure a cebola e o alho no óleo quente e
acrescente a carne moída e a salsa. Deixe refogar
alguns minutos. Misture a carne com as verduras e
acrescente o caldo de carne e a pimenta do reino. Adicione a água do cozimento dos vegetais No final as verduras devem ser amassadas como se fossem um purê. Sirva quente.

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